作为前几季的续篇，本次SAINT LAURENT圣罗兰最新2023冬季男装系列在巴黎商品交易所-皮诺艺术收藏馆（Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection）内发布,在这座悠久历史的穹顶新古典建筑内展现了Anthony Vaccarello安东尼·瓦卡莱洛的设计发展及愿景。艺术与圣罗兰本为同谋，因此建筑大师安藤忠雄不同凡响的内嵌式建筑结构，无疑是今晚这场简练与亲密的秀场空间不谋而合。建筑内部的混凝土圆柱微光闪烁，又与上季男装发布会之环形发光绿洲设计遥相呼应。象征着完美和纯粹的圆形，几乎在不经意间，成为圣罗兰反复出现的一个标志性元素。
A sequel to preceding seasons, the latest Saint Laurent collection presents Anthony Vaccarello's evolving vision in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection. Art and Saint Laurent have been complicit since the beginning, making Japanese architect Tadao Ando's radical structure-within-a-structure a natural setting for tonight’s concise and intimate presentation. The gleaming concrete cylinder echoes the luminous circle at the center of the brand’s last menswear show, almost inadvertently, the O shape, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, becomes a recurring, pertinent thread at Saint Laurent.
本次系列以精致优雅的设计及详尽周密的细节为主要特点。修长流畅的轮廓、坚挺果断的肩部设计及修身的腰部线条，每处细节与设计相辅相成。内敛色调含黑色、白色、驼色、海军蓝，缀以少量银色，强化且彰显了大胆而精致，使得每一件设计都注定不凡。
The ultra-focused presentation is characterized by refined, exhaustively thought-out details. A long, fluid silhouette is punctured with assertive shoulders and a narrow waist. A restrained palette - black, white, camel, navy, flashes of silver - reinforces a sense of bold sophistication. Each look is considered to a fault.
薄绸衬衫搭配束腰设计的连帽针织衫，融合运动元素的齐地裤装，整体造型更显一丝轻松感。大衣廓形宽松舒适，考究的款式和长度旨在推出振奋人心的设计，重新诠释品牌经典的设计语境。同时选用马海毛、羊绒、绸缎和丝绒等柔软面料与硬朗的纹理材质形成对比。贯穿本季，设计理念始终如一。
An unexpectedly confident chiffon shirt and hooded knitwear tunics are paired with ground-skimming, sweatpants-inspired trousers that inject ease to the overall precision. Coats introduce a new, ample volume. Shape and length are reconsidered to produce exciting pieces that reinterpret established brand codes. Soft fabrics - including mohair, cashmere, satin and velvet - contrast with hard-edged textures. Throughout, the point-of-view is strikingly unified.
品牌独具一格的性别流动对话在本季继续延展，圣罗兰女装系列设计中常会融入男装元素，同时女装对男士系列亦有影响，本季对于比例与裹身设计的把握：例如，最新的女装系列的兜帽设计，同时也多次在本季2023冬季男装系列的造型中得以延伸及展现。
The house's signature dialogue between masculine and feminine continues with increasing fluidity: while borrowed male elements always inform Saint Laurent womenswear, here a reciprocal influence is inescapable. It is evident in the masterful play of proportions and an idea of wrapping the body: further developing the hooded silhouettes of the most recent Saint Laurent women’s collection, a number of men’s looks for Winter 2023 extend up to cover the head with cagoules.
